Refenes
Visitors say
Our apart host recommended this place when we first came to Mytilini and the food, the view, the people…everything was amazing! The owners know both English and Turkish which is very helpful. My personal favourite was the octopus.
I had dinner at Refenes restaurant. Beautiful view of the sea, delicious food, fast service. All dishes were incredibly tasty! It gets very crowded after 7 p.m., so you would better make a table reservation.
About
Tucked near the quiet village of Alyfada in the eastern reaches of Lesvos, Refenes is the kind of unpretentious local taverna that rewards curious travelers who venture off the main tourist trail. Set amid the island's characteristic landscape of olive groves and stone-walled fields, it offers a genuine taste of Lesbian home cooking rooted in the agricultural traditions of the island's interior villages.
Visitors can expect the honest, hearty dishes that define Aegean rural cuisine: slow-cooked meats, fresh salads dressed with the island's celebrated olive oil, locally caught fish when available, and the kind of mezedes that pair naturally with a carafe of chilled ouzo or local wine. The atmosphere is relaxed and unhurried, shaped by the rhythms of village life rather than the demands of tourism, making it a place where a meal easily stretches into an afternoon.
Stopping at Refenes offers more than just a good meal — it is a chance to experience the quieter, more authentic side of Lesvos that lies beyond the well-trodden beaches and busy harbor towns. The surrounding area around Alyfada retains a deeply traditional character, and a table here connects visitors to the local community and the island's rich culinary heritage in a way that few resort restaurants can replicate.
Before you go
What to expect
Bare wooden tables, carafes of local wine, and plates of mezedes that keep arriving — Refenes runs on the unhurried rhythm of a neighbourhood taverna rather than a tourist schedule. Dishes lean on the island's own produce: slow-cooked meats, salads dressed with Lesbian olive oil, and whatever the morning's catch allowed. It's the kind of place where a late lunch can quietly become an evening.
Best time to visit
Open most of the year; spring and early autumn offer the most comfortable weather for lingering over a long meal.
How to get there
Refenes sits just a short walk from Mytilene's town centre — well under a kilometre — making it easy to reach on foot after exploring the harbour or the market.
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Visitor Reviews
Emre Erdan
September 2025
The personnel lacks interest, and the cuisine is lackluster. I would like to warn everyone to refuse any of the foods they recommend that are not on the menu. They charged us 55 euros for three fish dishes that would have cost no more than 12-15 euros in total. Indeed on the other taberna's of Mytilini we did eat the same fish too much more cheaper.
Fahri Akcomak
August 2025
Even natural rubber is less rubberish than the calamaris and octopus. May easily be the worst seafood experience i have ever had. Two stars is only because of the good tzaziki.
Ege Hunerli
July 2025
Our apart host recommended this place when we first came to Mytilini and the food, the view, the people…everything was amazing! The owners know both English and Turkish which is very helpful. My personal favourite was the octopus.
Todor Todorov
July 2025
We ate here with our friends who are locals, and they recommended it. Food was indeed amazing!! And one of the best fish experiences I've had in a while - you could tell the fish was freshly caught! Since we were with locals, the waiters also chit chat with us and it was a very fun and enjoyable experience. We plan to go again tonight
Anna Havrylenko
October 2024
I had dinner at Refenes restaurant. Beautiful view of the sea, delicious food, fast service. All dishes were incredibly tasty! It gets very crowded after 7 p.m., so you would better make a table reservation.
nihat murat sipahi
August 2024
Everything was great. Fried kalamari and red wine octopus should must try. And also thanks for good service to Nicos, Nicos jr. and Theodoris.
Alexandra Hill
April 2024
Atmosphere: serene, beautiful, comfortable, with the tasteful anroma and views of the Aegean Sea. The homes and buildings in the distance, seen from our seats, left a mosaic of colours in the black-blue water that I could not take my eyes off. Food: Lesvos is known for their seafood, and when I’d ordered the Smoked Mackerel, I expected it to be good. I did not however, expect it to be the best smoked mackerel I ever tasted. I will always remember it and instead of going to another restaurant, I’m going back there for my second dinner. I also ordered dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) and was delighted with the tart lemon cream on top. The rolls are smaller but come in approximately 11-12 pieces so you get to enjoy the vine leaf taste as well which is honestly my FAVOURITE part! I’ll miss this place when I leave. Service: Greeks have a term they use for ‘hospitality’, philoxenia, which translates to love of the unknown guest. Even when you order just a bit of food, their service here was incredibly warm, patient, and kind. They will never rush you the way it is in the Western countries. Note: they have the seating by the sea, and the kitchen is in a separate building across the street.
Pea Jay
August 2021
Old school tavern near the Castle of Mytilene. AMAZING food. Mouth drooling seafood and fair priced as well. Blazing fast service. Highly recommended!
Luziária Mesquita
October 2019
Best seafood we had in Mytilini. The service is very good, very friendly people. Fresh seafood for a good price. In the end they just serve some fruits and this is just a perfect end for a lunch or dinner. The view is amazing.
Onur Kagan Gocebe
September 2019
There are 4 or five restaurants in this shore. I tried 3 of them an I can say that the best one is this one. Has a Seaside and it blows cool and nicely from the sea. Food are very delicious and plates are full. Please eat shrimp saganaki here it is extraordinary delicious. Prices are standart, for instance mythos beer is 4€ and small 250ml ouzo is 6€.
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